1Nestlé
The unrepentant chocolatier
不思悔改的巧克力制造商
Oct 29th 2009 | LAUSANNE AND VEVEY
From The Economist print edition
The world’s biggest food company is betting on an emerging class of health and nutrition products to spur its growth. But risks abound
世界头号食品公司将宝压在健康营养产品的新兴阶层以促进公司壮大。然而,危机四伏
IT IS a curious blend of kitchen and laboratory. From one room wafts the bittersweet smell of chocolate being gently heated and stirred by chocolatiers. Around the corner it is all science. A double row of cubicles contains human guinea pigs who sniff and taste from little tubs, scoring each on criteria such as sweetness or bitterness to produce complex flavour charts. Down the corridor, women in comfortable chairs talk about how chocolate makes them feel. Cameras and microphones record their most minute gestures for the scrutiny of psychologists and anthropologists
这种厨房与实验室的结合着实新奇。制造商将巧克力微微加热,使其散发出甜中带苦的口味。事情虽小确是科学。两排小隔间的实验对象嗅闻、品尝小盒中的食物,并根据甜、苦等标准打分,制造商据此创造复杂的口味系列。穿过走廊,很多女士坐在舒服的座椅上,描述吃巧克力的感觉。她们每一个细微的动作都被摄像机和麦克风记录下来,稍后心理学家和人类学家将对这些数据进行仔细分析。